Devilled Kidneys

Fergus Henderson, says of devilled kidneys that they are “the perfect breakfast on your birthday, with a glass of black velvet”. Some folk are put off by the smell of kidneys and the slight taint that they sometimes have to the taste. If you get fresh kidneys, this will not be the case.

Cut the kidneys into quarters and cut away the white part at the centre as this is a little gristly and unpalatable.

Set a frying pan over a high heat and, when hot, add the lard closely followed by the kidneys.

Brown them on one side before turning them. After around 2 minutes, add the wine, allowing it to reduce down, then add the white wine vinegar, Worcestershire sauce, mustard and cayenne pepper.

Now stir in the cream and let it bubble away and reduce to a thick sauce. Taste and adjust the seasoning or peppery heat to your liking. Sprinkle over some freshly chopped parsley and serve with a good crispy toast to soak up the juices. The black velvet is optional!



  • 4 fresh pig’s kidneys
  • 1 tbsp lard
  • A slug of red wine
  • 1½ tbsp white wine vinegar
  • A good splash of Worcestershire sauce
  • 1 tbsp English mustard
  • A pinch of cayenne pepper
  • 2–3 tbsp double cream
  • Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • Chopped flat-leaf parsley